Brandon Cyr | Permit Fishing 101 - How To Catch A Permit On Fly | Tom Rowland Podcast Ep. 217

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Episode Show Notes

Permit on fly is the hardest single shot in saltwater fly fishing, in my experience. Yesterday I sat down with Capt Brandon Cyr — fourth-generation conch and Key West flats guide — for the third installment of my permit series. Brandon walked me through the three-by-three lead rule, the long smooth strip in the mid water column, the tail-down-rise-up read of the eat, and the long-slow-strip hook set on permit's soft rubber lips. The episode is the map. This is the cheat sheet I wrote up the morning after.

I've been guiding the Florida Keys for over twenty years and started my own guide career fly-fishing exclusively for permit. Permit themselves are not the hard part — they eat live crabs readily. The hard part is fly fishing for them, and Brandon's analogy nailed it. It would be like eating a ribeye every day, then having somebody put a piece of tofu in front of you and try to convince you it was a ribeye. No fly perfectly imitates a live crab. Presentation has to do the work the imitation can't.

Key Takeaways

  • The three-by-three rule. Lead three feet in front and three feet past — never on the head. The fly gets a path to cross, not a path to escape from.
  • Long smooth strips in the mid water column. Real blue crabs hover. They only dive when a predator gets close.
  • Make the longest cast you can. The reasoning is room to re-cast, not stealth. Thirty feet away, you get one shot. Sixty feet, you get three.
  • Go the long way around upwind fish. Ten minutes of poling buys a downwind shot. The delta is usually the eat.
  • Stop the boat. A drifting hull steals stripping power. The fly never moves the way the angler thinks it's moving.
  • The eat is visual, not tactile. Half of permit eats are not felt. The cue is tail-down, rise-up — and the response is a long slow strip, not a hook set.
  • Soft hands on the hook set. No trout set. No tarpon set. Long slow strip, raise the rod tip when it comes tight, let the drag finish the job.

Brandon's Setup, in His Words

  • 9- or 10-weight fast-action rod. Brandon's go-to is the Hardy Zephyrus — picks up a lot of line in one haul. He drops to an 8 only on dead-calm days.
  • Heavy tarpon-taper fly line. Turns over a longer leader in fewer false casts. False casts are what spook permit before the fly ever lands.
  • 12-to-18-foot leader. Twelve-foot minimum. Up to 18 for skilled anglers in calm conditions, back to 12 in 25-knot wind.
  • Crab and shrimp flies, on the lighter side. Merkins, the strong-arm crab pattern Nathaniel Linville and Dave Skok originated, and tan shrimp flies. If you're snagging grass in the first two or three strips, your fly is too heavy.
  • Polarized sunglasses. One of the most valuable tools you can have for permit. You have to see the fish.

The Three-by-Three Rule and the Strip

The single most repeatable piece of technique Brandon gave me was the three-by-three rule. Lead the fish three feet in front and three feet past. Drop the fly directly on a permit's head and you have no maneuverability — the first strip pulls the fly out of his path. The three-feet-past part gives the stripping a job. As the fish slides down the flat, the fly crosses his path. For him to not eat it, he has to move left or right to avoid it.

The default stripping pattern is long, smooth strips that keep the fly in the mid water column — where blue crabs hover when escaping a predator. Real crabs don't bolt straight to the bottom; they shoot down only when the predator gets close.

Once the permit notices the fly and starts over, Brandon chooses between three moves:

  • Let the crab drop. Stop stripping. Let the fly fall like a crab giving up and diving for the bottom.
  • Speed it up. If the fish is following but won't commit, fast strips can fire him into a predatory chase — Brandon's caught permit hammering crabs on the surface like a jack crevalle.
  • Change flies. A hard refusal is data — the fish is telling you the one in his face is not right.

The fish that calmly keeps swimming past is also information. The three-by-three is a default, not a law.

The Approach: Make the Longest Cast, Stop the Boat

Brandon broke the approach into three scenarios:

  • Tailing fish in skinny water. Get the angler out of the boat. The boat is a billboard; off the boat, the angler is part of the bottom.
  • Cruising fish over hard bottom. Make the longest cast you can manage. The reasoning isn't stealth — it's room to re-cast. Thirty feet away, you have one shot. Cast at 60 or 70, you have room to try two or three things.
  • Fish upwind. Brandon goes the long way around — every time. Ten minutes of poling buys a downwind 40-footer instead of a 30-foot shot into the wind.

The rule that ties all three together — don't rush. 90 percent of the permit Brandon catches are fish he can see the entire time through the cast.

The one place I jumped in with something I'd learned the hard way — stop the boat. Not "almost stopped." Stopped, where the angler almost takes a step off the bow. A drifting hull steals half the stripping power — the angler is just stripping up slack the boat is creating.

The Eat: Half Your Clients Won't Feel It

About 50 percent of the permit Brandon's clients catch, the customer doesn't feel the eat. Permit don't eat the way tarpon eat. They tail down, do a little wiggle, then start rising back up — the angler waiting for a thump never feels anything.

Brandon's coaching: the moment he sees the rise, he tells the client to do a long, smooth strip, nice and slow. Sometimes the fish missed the fly in the grass — the slow strip makes the fly look like a crab trying to get away, the fish chases hard and inhales it. The pattern: tails down, rises up, long slow strip — either he ate it and you come tight, or the escaping-crab motion makes him chase on the second try. Clients tell Brandon "I don't feel anything." His answer is always the same: keep doing big strips. They feel the bump on the half-strip, do another big strip, and they're tight.

The Hook Set: Never Trout, Never Tarpon

Brandon's instruction here was clear. Do not trout-set with permit — lifting the rod tip yanks the fly away. Do not tarpon-set either. Permit have soft mouths, and you're fishing 12-pound test or lighter. A hard strip-set will pop them off.

What Brandon coaches instead: it's basically a slow strip. Feel the pressure, do a half strip, and as soon as it comes tight, raise the rod tip a little. Once it gets to the drag on the reel, the drag buries the hook deeper. Permit have what Brandon called beautiful soft rubber lips — he's had clients let go of the line to clear a tangle and the fish stays buttoned.

One related call: clear fly lines work great for tarpon, but Brandon doesn't recommend them for permit. If the guide can see the fly line, he can coach the angler in real time — that fly's close to the fish, or it's out of play, pick it up. A clear line removes that landmark. Brandon prefers grass-colored, light green, or light blue.

When to Go and How to Pick a Guide

Brandon fishes for permit year-round. His honest answer on best time of year is that there isn't a single best. For consistency, June through the first cold front in October or November — summer fish run eight to 15 pounds. For bigger, hungrier fish, winter warm-ups between cold fronts. For pure volume, April pre-spawn aggregations. The hard rule Brandon kept coming back to: water temperature, not month. The magic window is 73 to 80 degrees. Below 70 is tough. Above 80, the flats lose oxygen and the fish go deeper.

On picking a guide, Brandon's framework is short. Pick someone you can communicate with calmly. The typical Florida Keys screamer multiplies the nerves of an angler whose target is already on a pedestal. His Garmin tracks his heart rate — resting he sits at 60 to 65, every permit sighting jumps him to almost 120, and his voice coaching the client never changes. Book through local fly shops — in Key West, Brandon names the Angling Company and the Saltwater Angler. Check Instagram — if somebody's catching permit, they're posting pictures every day.

Final Thoughts From Me

Brandon talks about permit the way a chess player talks about a position — reading three moves ahead while still describing the current move. The three-by-three rule, the long slow strip on the eat, the long way around to get a downwind shot — those aren't tricks. They're a coherent system built on watching thousands of permit react to thousands of presentations.

The part I'd tell a fly angler reading this: practice the three-by-three with a casting target in your yard before you ever see a fish. Brandon's bow decisions happen in two seconds — the angler making them for the first time on a real fish is way behind. Practice the front-end mechanics, then let Brandon coach the back end.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you catch a permit on fly?

What's worked for Brandon Cyr is to lead the fish three feet in front and three feet past with a tan crab or shrimp fly, strip in long smooth strokes to keep the fly in the mid water column, and watch the fish read your presentation. When a permit tails down then starts to rise up, do a long slow strip — never trout-set or tarpon-set. About half of permit eats aren't felt. The visual cue (tail down, rise up, then come tight) is the actual hook-set trigger.

What is the three-by-three rule for permit fly fishing?

Brandon Cyr's three-by-three rule is to cast three feet in front of the permit and three feet past him. Dropping the fly on his head means your first strip pulls the fly out of his path. The three-foot lead creates a path the fly crosses as the fish moves forward, forcing him to actively avoid it if he doesn't want to eat.

What fly rod and line does Brandon Cyr use for permit?

Brandon fishes a 9- or 10-weight Hardy Zephyrus, super-fast action. He drops to an 8-weight only on dead-calm days. For line, his preference is a heavy tarpon-taper because it turns over a longer leader in fewer false casts. Leaders run 12 to 18 feet depending on angler skill and wind.

Why are permit so hard to catch on fly?

Permit are not actually hard to catch — they eat live crabs readily. They're hard to catch on fly because no fly perfectly imitates a live crab. Brandon Cyr's analogy: it's like trying to convince somebody who eats ribeye every day that a piece of tofu is the same thing. Presentation has to do the work the imitation can't.

How do you set the hook on a permit?

Never trout-set, never tarpon-set. Permit have soft mouths and you're fishing 12-pound test or lighter. When the fish tails down and rises up, do a long slow strip. As you feel pressure coming tight, raise the rod tip slightly. Once on the reel, the drag itself sets the hook deeper.

When is the best time to fly fish for permit in the Florida Keys?

For consistency, June through the first cold front in October or November (fish run 8 to 15 pounds). For bigger fish, winter warm-ups between cold fronts. For volume, April pre-spawn aggregations. Brandon Cyr's real answer is water temperature, not month. The magic window is 73 to 80 degrees.

How long should a permit leader be?

Brandon Cyr's minimum is 12 feet. Up to 18 feet for skilled anglers in calm conditions. In 25-knot wind he stays at 12. The long leader pairs with a heavy tarpon-taper line, which turns over the long leader in fewer false casts.

What fly patterns work best for permit?

Brandon uses merkins, the strong-arm crab pattern Nathaniel Linville and Dave Skok originated (a merkin with a single claw off the back), and tan shrimp flies — all on the lighter side. If the fly is snagging grass in the first two or three strips, it's too heavy.

How do you pick a permit guide in the Florida Keys?

Brandon's framework: pick someone you can communicate with calmly. Book through a local fly shop (in Key West, the Angling Company on Simonton Street or the Saltwater Angler on Front Street) because shops match you to the right guide for repeat business. Check Instagram — if a guide is catching permit, they're posting pictures every day.

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